Offerings to Mother Ganga at dawn … Varanasi is fascinating, but of all our stops so far, it’s the one we are glad to have seen, but have no desire to go back. The stares are that bit harder, the smiles less forthcoming, the smells more pungent, the surroundings dirtier. This is one of the poorest regions of India, and I think what we were sensing was that extra level of desperation. Strange for such a holy city, but for the first time, we felt slightly uneasy here..