Bolivia

Change of plans - heading to Chile, Bolivia

Sat, 23 Nov 2024 22:10:00 -0400

We spent the night parked at the airport when Ciara flew out—made the logistics a breeze! As soon as she left, we gave Konokono a much-needed wash at a local garage, where they even lifted her up and sprayed her with oil and diesel—a real treat. Next stop: a garage for an oil and filter change. I assumed this would be cheap since diesel in Bolivia was (though scarce), but I was wrong—oil was twice the price I expected. Worse, they didn’t tell me the cost until it was already in. Despite insisting they had warned me multiple times, they did knock off some of the labor charges, so I left relatively satisfied. Then, we hit the road, heading south. The plan was to drive near, but not into, the salt flats—never understood the appeal of Bolivia’s famous ones. Just an endless stretch of white, brutal on the vehicle, and potentially a soupy trap that could swallow you whole! From there, we aimed for a well-known off-road route past multiple lakes, but we hit a major problem—fuel. Fuel in Bolivia is scarce, meaning you need to queue for a full day (or more) just to get some, and even then, as a foreigner, you pay twice what locals do. The wait itself wasn’t my main concern—we have time. The bigger issue is the impact on locals. If we take hundreds of liters and a tractor is behind us in line, that family might not get the fuel they need for farming, which could cost them their crops and livelihood. That doesn’t sit right with me. So, we make the call—skip the hassle, skip the ethical dilemma, and head for Chile.

La Paz - what a great surprise, Bolivia

Sat, 16 Nov 2024 22:10:00 -0400

La Paz is one of those places that leaves you with stories worth filling a journal. Perched at dizzying altitudes, it’s the highest capital city in the world, with parts of El Alto soaring over 4,000 meters. Having acclimatized at over 3,500 meters for nearly two months, we avoided altitude sickness, but the thin air still made every staircase a challenge—and La Paz has a lot of stairs. Our base was a paid parking lot in El Alto (where the old lady also became our money exchange connection - what a woman), but the real magic began when we rode the city’s famous cable cars down to La Paz. For just 30 cents, you can glide silently above the bustling streets on one of the cleanest and most efficient transit systems we've ever encountered. The ten interconnected lines crisscross the city, offering breathtaking views as they float gracefully over homes. It’s a marvel of urban transport—and one of our favorite experiences. Exploring the city, we hit up vibrant tourist markets brimming with local goods and sampled incredible street food. One night, we splurged on an eight-course fine-dining experience for just $17—a surreal deal for a decadent meal. While La Paz doesn’t stun with grand architecture or picturesque squares, it overflows with energy, charm, and a warm, welcoming vibe. For something truly out-of-the-box, Ciara and I attended cholita wrestling. Initially created to empower women against domestic violence, it’s now a quirky mix of performance and backpacker entertainment—a bizarre but unforgettable evening. We also visited Moon Valley, where the fragile, otherworldly rock formations showcase the precarious geology beneath the city. After a rainy night by a small lake (which would’ve been idyllic in better weather), we returned to El Alto for Ciara’s final night. La Paz left us enchanted by its contrasts, from the effortless glide of its cable cars to the raw energy of its streets. A city of endless surprises, it’s a place we’ll remember long after the altitude headache fades.

El Alto to La Paz by cable car, a decent of 560m! You almost touch houses!

The cable car!

The cable car

The streets of La Paz

Full of colour!

Walking the streets of La Paz

Witches market - real witch

You don't want to know

The sreet food is gorgeous

You can probably guess!

Cholita Wrestling!

Moon Park

At the fancy restaurant

Ohh... fancy food

La Paz is famous for making Patagonia branded jumpers, custom made and even have the logo! Josh seems to like it!

Bolivia’s Cordillera Real, trekking the Andes, Bolivia

Wed, 13 Nov 2024 22:10:00 -0400

After soaking in the magic of Lake Titicaca, we set off for Penas, a quaint little town nestled in the shadow of Bolivia’s Cordillera Real. Our stay was brief but essential—a chance to rest and gear up for the next leg of our adventure. The mountains to the north of La Paz, with their jagged peaks and snow-dusted beauty, promised an unforgettable trek. The drive was an adventure in itself. We climbed to 4,200 meters and parked beside a bubbling stream to prepare for the ascent. Cold altitude played tricks on our diesel engine, and I’m now fully committed to learning the art of starting a truck under these conditions (and maybe replacing those filters!). Eventually, we roared to life and made it to 4,500 meters. From there, the real journey began. We hiked upwards, lungs burning but hearts full, reaching nearly 4,800 meters. Along the way, we were rewarded with breathtaking views of glacial lakes—each one a jewel in the rugged landscape. The highlight was Laguna Chiar Khota, a serene, turquoise gem cradled by towering peaks. Truly, a place that makes every step worth it!

Practice walk, Lucia joined us.

Alpacas to the left and Llamas to the right!

Starting the lake walk at over 4000m!

4400m, still going strong!

Glaciers a sign we are getting closer!

We made it!

Luckily we met other trekkers and they took a pic!

Post our walk, one last lake side camp spot - this time with a primary school dance performance!

Konokono goes on a RAFT! , Bolivia

Sat, 09 Nov 2024 22:10:00 -0400

What a thrill! We somehow managed to load our massive 14-ton, 9-meter-long expedition truck onto a small wooden raft to cross Lake Titicaca. The waves were a bit rough, and our suspension had us swaying dramatically with every push of the water—nerve-wracking, to say the least! Our raft captain was a young guy, handling the entire crossing with just a tiny outboard motor. Despite the conditions, he navigated us across with calm confidence. On the other side, we found a quiet spot to park and soak in the scenery as we ventured further into Bolivia. But Bolivia’s current political situation has led to some unexpected challenges with fuel. We’ve passed station after station—either closed or with empty pumps. Trucks sit abandoned along the roads. Rumor has it there’s no diesel in the country. If this keeps up, we may need to adjust our plans and aim for Chile!

These simple rafts, powered by small outboard motors, creak under the weight of Konokono, but they somehow glide steadily over the lake

Finn is wondering what is happening

The suspension on Konokono is extreme, so the waves made us till dramatically, actually quite scary!

Just a plank of wood and a 14 ton camper!

We crossed to Bolivia! Copacabana

Fri, 08 Nov 2024 09:50:00 -0500

We made it across the border into Bolivia! Not too hard, but definitely not seamless. In Peru, they took their time entering all our details into the system and decided to give our truck a good check—more out of curiosity, I think, than suspicion! Crossing into Bolivia, we had a brief hiccup: the guards first said we'd need to go all the way back to Cusco to visit the German Embassy (wait, what?!), but after a bit of back-and-forth, they let us through. The border control officer even shared his top tips on Bolivian food to try! Finally, we rolled into Copacabana, right by the lake. We found a secluded spot to park next to the water, just out of town. Spent three peaceful days here, feasting on fresh trout, kayaking, hiking the sacred hill, and just soaking it all in. We skipped the boat ride to the Island of the Sun, but maybe next time!

Me and my co-pilot

One of Bolivia's quirkiest and most fascinating rituals is the ch’alla—a blessing for vehicles. It takes place in places like Copacabana, where locals (and travelers!) bring their cars, trucks, and even bicycles to be sprinkled with holy water, adorned with flowers, and showered with small offerings like confetti, beer, and coca leaves. The idea is to invoke protection and good fortune for your journeys, a must if you’re braving Bolivia’s winding mountain roads. We met some friends who took part in this ritual, and they loved the experience—it’s festive, colorful, and an unforgettable cultural immersion. As much as I appreciated the tradition, I decided to skip the ceremony and put my money toward new oil filters instead. Call me practical, but I figure clean oil is more likely to keep me on the road than confetti and beer!

If Copacabana, Bolivia, has a culinary claim to fame, it’s the trout. Sitting on the shores of Lake Titicaca, the town is renowned for its fresh and flavorful lake trout—served in a myriad of ways that are as charming as the town itself.

Nestled in the heart of Copacabana, Bolivia, stands the stunning Basilica of Our Lady of Copacabana

Copacabana, Bolivia, might share its name with the iconic beach in Brazil, but that’s where the similarities end. Ciara, having visited both within weeks, could definitely attest to the stark contrast!