A 5-week journey through Portugal, with London tacked on at the end.Jauntlet.comhttps://jauntlet.com/Last full day in London, and last non-travel vacation day. I was concerned, at the start of the trip, that 5 weeks away would be too much. It hasn't felt that way, though. People to meet, things to do, food to try... It's been good. So today was the "art walk". First up, a couple of tube rides to the Southbank neighborhood and the Tate Modern. Originally a power plant, the massive building was renovated and then opened in 2000. It holds one of the largest collections of modern art in the world. Picasso, Klee, Monet's "Waterlilies", some Warhol, and a whole bunch of other amazing art. "Babel," by Cildo Meireles (2001) was a (perhaps) 30' high tower of radios, each playing a different station. And lots of works focusing on activism, civil war, and gender identity; all of which spoke deeply to current circumstances. Oh, and the Tate Modern is free! Next up was a walk along the south bank of the Thames past London Bridge and The Shard to Lundon Bridge underground station, and on to Canary Wharf with its collection of large modern buildings representing much of London's vast financial prowess. Lunch at a street cart. From there, a couple more tube trains to The Strand and The Courtald Gallery, representing one the most important collections of Impressionism. Dredge up all the names you'd expect: Monet, Manet, Cezanne, Degas, Gaugin, Sisley, Seurat, Rousseau... It's pretty incredible. What I didn't expect, and enjoyed, were 2 rooms of Rubens. Granted, he isn't my favorite artist (particularly the subject matter) but hey, the guy could paint! There was a 'Monet in London' special exhibit, including, I believe, "Houses of Parliament" that I saw a while back in Portland. Unfortunately, that exhibit was totally sold out for the entire exhibition. So, tonight is packing, a nice dinner and a good night's rest. And tomorrow is a long travel day. I will miss weird things like plastic water bottle caps that stay tethered to the bottle. And hearing several languages on the subway or street. I've already missed Portugal's casual pace and friendliness. World class art. I will not miss London's prices (20 GBP for a small breakfast, same for a cart lunch. Dinner can get to 50 GBP without batting an eye.) I am really glad to have met the folks that I've met on this trip as well. So many interesting, kind and generous people. And we're all mucking our way through life together. https://jauntlet.com//95894https://jauntlet.com//95894Mon, 11 Nov 2024 10:40:00 +0000https://jauntlet.com//95891https://jauntlet.com//95891Sun, 10 Nov 2024 10:40:00 +0000Light breakfast this morning, and then the tube out to Richmond and Kew Gardens. Dating back at least to 1759, and with about 330 acres, the Royal Botanical Gardens, Kew is one of most important institutions of its kind in the world for research and conservation. Four massive glass houses (some dating back to the Victorian era), trees some of which are a couple hundred years old, beautiful vistas, the works. Christmas decorating in progress. The only "down" side were the continuous wheels-down airplane landings at nearby Heathrow. Yep, it's a busy airport, and unfortunately the gardens are right under the landing paths. It's a long tube ride to Richmond, including a change of trains. Not difficult by any means, but it was probably close to an hour each way. Piccadilly and District Lines on the way out. District and Victoria Lines back in. I was reminded today of London drivers. In Portugal, cars will stop for pedestrians. Not true in London! Cars have the (perceived) right of way at all times. Pedestrians walk at their own peril. The one exception has been a couple of pedestrian crossings marked with flashing poles and its understood that pedestrians have the right of way. I pulled out my New York pedestrian skills and the London drivers could care less. They're still gonna go first!https://jauntlet.com//95882https://jauntlet.com//95882Sat, 09 Nov 2024 10:40:00 +0000https://jauntlet.com//95879https://jauntlet.com//95879Fri, 08 Nov 2024 10:40:00 +0000Travel day! Faro > London. It was kind of hard to leave Portugal. Have/hate to say that it felt a little like leaving home after a month. Weird, but there it is. The taxi ride to the airport turned out to be a little tricky as the lady driving wanted to talk politics and thought America made a good choice by electing a strongman. Immigration was a hot topic for her (even though she wants to emigrate to the US). But, as those things go, there was racism underlying that. Fortunately a brief ride. British Air did a fine job doing what they do. A newer Airbus, unlike the last one that was older and more cramped. An Irish business woman sat next to me and we struck up a fine conversation. And she, too, would have voted for Orange Julius "for the business taxes," and even though her brother-in-law is gay. I tell ya, money wins over almost anything, anywhere... The train from Gatwick to Victoria station was delayed because someone had been struck by another train. After a couple of false starts we managed the half-hour trip. The underground was busy (when is it not?), and I was grateful for wayfinding signage that is much better than in Portugal. Oxford Street is chock full of people, early Christmas displays are up, hands full of shopping bags. I have to check myself and not say "obrigado" or "desculpe"; rather "thank you" or "pardon me". My power converter was old enough that it doesn't work in the updated electrical system here, so I forked out 30 GBP for a new one to pair with the Canadian USB cable I bought on the last trip to Victoria. But, it's London! Just when I think I like smaller cities, I end up in a large one with a great vibe. Mexico City was the last one. Don't ask. It's complicated.https://jauntlet.com//95877https://jauntlet.com//95877Thu, 07 Nov 2024 10:40:00 +0000Didn't sleep well with all the political news - for US peeps it was late evening news, here it was early morning. Without dwelling on it, it is clearly on many people's minds. BBC is popping out article after article on the impacts on the UK. Overheard conversations at breakfast, in several languages, seemed focused on K***la and T***p. I have no idea what the specifics were, and it didn't matter. I have my own thoughts and feelings to process. "Processing" for me, often takes the form of long walks, and that's exactly what I did. A good wander about the city. Breakfast on a pedestrian street, Rua C. Bivar. Random streets with cool breezes coming in off the water to soften the brilliant sunlight. A couple of pretty parks with trees. Old men hanging out in pastalerias drinking coffee and chatting. Old women with small shopping bags from the neighborhood Continente. Schools, some with high schoolers out back smoking cigarettes. A fort, giggling schoolgirls, the waterfront. A pastry and tea for 3 Euro. Deliveries to shops. A car too big for the street figuring out how to un-turn the corner. This, is seems, is what people do when the earthquake strikes further away. The tide is in, and now it is out. It was good to be reminded of that. I keep forgetting to mention housing here. Visualize large housing blocks - that American picket-fence-with-a-yard doesn't exist much here. For the building in which I'm staying, and I see it replicated over and over, think of a tower (however many floors high - mine is 5). On the ground floor are shops that face the street. Midway, is an entrance to a residential lobby. There is an elevator to the back left, one to the back right, and a stairway between them. Each floor has maybe 2-4 apartments. Mine has 3. Replicate the pattern as high as you want to go. Everyone gets a terrace (balcony). Now, duplicate that tower structure several times (my "block" has 4 towers). The towers might share common walls, but you can't go from one tower to another without going to the street. Sometimes the towers are lined up in a line for a monolithic look. Other times, the towers are connected but staggered in some way. Sometimes the towers are free standing but closely positioned. Regardless, its towers. They are space and energy efficient. Private. Functional. I didn't quite get the model until staying in one. How nice yours is probably depends on the age. But the new stuff is structured just like the aging stock. Find a tower that fits your needs and you're home. I'm checked in for the flight to London. Laundry is dry and folded (dried on a rack on the terrace). Time to pack. And then a nice dinner tonight. And hopefully sleep.https://jauntlet.com//95876https://jauntlet.com//95876Wed, 06 Nov 2024 10:40:00 +0000Another day, another day trip, although this was the last on this trip. The regional train (I can see them at the station from my window) took me west to the city of Portimao. It's roughly 60,000 residents are about 45 miles, or a 1.5 hour train ride from Faro with stops every 5-10 minutes. Portimao was settled in pre-Roman times by the Cynetes, then later the Phoenicians, Greeks, and Carthaginians (mid-500s BC). By the 400s CE, the Visigoths ran the show, and then the Moors. In 1249, Portuguese King Alfonso II took over. Pirate raids were a problem and two defensive forts, on either side of the Arade River were constructed in the 1400s. In the 1600s, agricultural exports and slave imports supported the local economy. And then the 1755 earthquake and tsunami did a number on the town. From the 1800s to the 1980s, fishing and packing were important, but were done in by recession. The city doesn't come across as particularly attractive. It fronts the Arade River with a view toward neighboring Ferragudo. Large apartment blocks work their way back from the river with the occasional small park, plaza or traffic circle. There is a very lengthy shopping street (with a fair number of empty storefronts), and a large morning market. I saw a bit more (apparently) homeless asking for money, more than I've seen elsewhere. While Portimao sits on the riverfront and is focused on locals, neighboring Praia da Rocha is the beachfront locale with a casino and services dedicated to tourism. Most people seem to think of Praia when they think of Portimao, and even though it all runs together, they are definitely not the same. The train ride out and back was more bumpy than the eastern stretch to Vila Real de Santo Antonio. And a lot of work was being done to ready the line for electrification. Poles and wires were in place between Porto and Tunes (TUNE-esh), but only poles further west. Portugal, like most of Europe I think, is further along than the US in de-carbonizing transportation. A majority of buses I've seen are electric, with some natural gas and even fewer diesel. Most trains are electric. Cars seem to be diesel or gasoline, with some electric. I've seen many more motorbikes in this part of Portugal which makes sense given the warmer year-round climate. They do like their loud motors... One more day in Portugal, and then to England. Time flies.https://jauntlet.com//95875https://jauntlet.com//95875Tue, 05 Nov 2024 10:40:00 +0000I spent a little too much time watching political news this morning (very early morning in the US) and thus got a late start on today's wander. Settlement in this area started in about the 4th century BC, by the Phoenicians. Then the Romans, Byzantines, Visigoths, and finally the Moors in the 700s. Faro's city walls dating from the late 500s-early 600s are still here. The Moors were kicked out in 1249 (after 500 years of occupation) by Portuguese King Afonso III. The 1st book printed in Portugal, the Torah, in 1487, later got stolen by the English in 1597. The city became the administrative center for the region in 1756 after the Lisbon earthquake and tsunami wiped everyone else out. It's a nice town. The center has the required narrow alleys, cobble, late-evening dining. Not too far out, modern apartment blocks neighbor shopping malls and "highways". Ikea. I got a 2-day Algarve train pass for unlimited travel between Lagos (west end) and Vila Real de Santo Antonio (VRSA, east end). I decided to go to VRSA and work my way back to Porto. The ride to VRSA was slow - a regional train further slowed by spots of track work and construction of new station platforms. It's a single-track line from Faro to VRSA and the Spanish border. Orange groves dominate the landscape putting Anita Bryant to shame. As well, many lagoons of evaporating salt water for the production of, um, salt. There were egret nests. It's often difficult to see the Atlantic as the southern shore is marshy with some barrier islands, and sand dunes. VRSA was established in 1755 after the Lisbon earthquake, although inhabitants extend back to the Megalithic period. There are roughly 20,000 people, and the city sits on the western shore of the Guarda River, looking across to Spain and the city of Ayamonte. It was built in 2 years' time under the direction of the Marquis of Pombal (the same guy who reigned in the Inquisitors and then exiled the Jews). The main square bears his name for getting the job done (or, maybe, ego? Not sure). The riverfront is lovely with buildings reminiscent of Lisbon (built/rebuilt at the same time). Boats, a ferry to Spain, a chill breeze, and the laid-back feel that comes with a small, maritime town. The next stop, back through the orange groves, was Olhao. About 45,000 people, it's a 10-minute train ride from Faro. It's a traditional fishing village (allegedly) off the tourist circuit - although I'd wager that's been changing lately. It has the requisite shopping streets (with all the same stuff you'd see in any other Portuguese shopping street), narrow cobbled lanes, pastry shops, and fine dining. As a day tripper, what makes the town is its waterfront and a giant market with vegetables and freshly caught fish. Dating back at least to the 1300s, things took off in the 1600s after a fort was built to guard the estuary. It's likely the city will further morph when the planned metro line (bus rapid transit) connects Olhao with Faro and Loule. This was a day of train riding interspersed with short stops here and there. That was nice for sore feet. VRSA and Olhao both still had that relaxed vibe I found more predominant in the north, and it was good to see that again. Faro has it as well, although it feels a bit more down-to-business as the region's administrative and transportation hub. And it's sure nice to be enjoying 70-degree days / 50-degree nights in November. https://jauntlet.com//95873https://jauntlet.com//95873Mon, 04 Nov 2024 10:40:00 +0000Another day, another train ride, and now I am in my "final" Portuguese town, Faro. The morning started in the quiet hours in Evora, where folks who'd either done all nighters or were early risers were sitting in the main square taking in the morning light. The train ride from Evora to Faro involved two inter-city trains with a change in Pinhal Novo, just south of Lisbon. The inter-cities, by the way, go nearly as fast as the Alpha Pendiculars, but they don't tilt, and they sometimes add in a couple more stops. Anyway, the Pinhal Novo station is fairly big as it's on the main high-speed north-south line and provides transfers to several regional and local lines. I found a single reader board in the entire station that worked. It told me to use platform 2 (great) and that the train was a half-hour late (boo) due to signal issues. The intercity dining cars are underwhelming, but the meet the need. Amtrak does better in this way by a little. The seats have power for devices, but my converter wouldn't fit the available space. Yet another excuse to avoid US news. Along the entire route were stone pines (i.e., pine nut trees), cork forests/farms, and the occasional orange grove. The soil looked crappy - some combination of clay and sand - it all looked quite dry. ...the wine guy last night said they'd lost nearly all of their crop in 2020 to mildew and drought. They made one small batch of wine and labeled it "Pandemico". Traveling south from the Lisbon area to Faro definitely felt like a ride through a remote region. Towns were few and far between, the land was rough with eroded hills, and I assume it's freakin' hot here in the summer. The action is all on the coastline, or further north. The apartment in Faro is close to the train station, and looks across marshes and the airport to the ocean in the far distance. Faro really isn't a beach town - more the economic and transportation hub for the rest of the Algarve. But I have a room with a view, a washer (line dry), and an electric kettle. I'm getting a wee bit tired of restaurants, so the Pingo Doce down the street offered up granola, boxed milk, pasta, a half bottle of wine, water, and most importantly, McVittie's dark chocolate digestives. I'd share, but those are almost gone...https://jauntlet.com//95870https://jauntlet.com//95870Sun, 03 Nov 2024 10:40:00 +0000Evora is an interesting mix of old and new, traditional and progressive. First occupied by the Celts (BC era), then the Romans, the Moors, the reconquest and on to present day. There are remnants of a 1st Century Roman temple adjacent to the cathedral (c. 1280). Its university, Portugal's 2nd oldest, was established in 1559. A Jesuit school, it was closed by the government in 1759 (the Jesuits got kicked out), and then re-opened in 1973. The city proper is small in area. Within the medieval walls are warrens of walkways that lead up to the cathedral and the Roman temple. Not nearly as hilly as anywhere else I've been in Portugal, it is easy walking. But, in the summer, afternoon temps get up into the 110s and everything pretty much shuts down from 1-4pm. First stop this morning was the Capela dos Ossos, or Bone Chapel. Part of the Gothic Church of St. Francis (c. 1475). Roughly 5,000 skeletons were dug up from local medieval cemeteries to decorate the chapel. There's a reminder that "you'll be here soon". Gotta love Franciscan humor. This was juxtaposed against a large collection of nativity paraphernalia donated by some rich people, and an actually quite nice collection of 16th Century oil paintings, largely focused on St. Francis. I walked past the cathedral (c. 1280) and around the Roman temple (1st Century) to a small park with a lovely view of the city and countryside to the north. Further wandering ended up following the acqueduct (c. 1530s) down a roughly cobbled lane where homes had been integrated into the acqueduct's arches (and that likely preserved the structure). More wandering, with several pairs of little old ladies helping each other navigate the rough streets. And dogs, and a cat. Evora seems to be this contrast of old and new, and rich and poor. There are many expensive restaurants with amazing menus and required reservations. Or, cheap, not-very-good food. An award-winning vegetarian cafeteria had some of the worst food I've had in a long time (think over-cooked frozen peas) - but it was 5 Euro for lunch. A lot of people seem to dress better here - likely a traditional sense of propriety. No high heels -not compatible with rough cobble! There are trendy shops selling high end undergarments and baby clothes. The shopkeepers, especially wine shops, seem less enthusiastic if you're not dressed to impress. This place evokes a bit of the feel of Healdsburg, California, but with an extra few thousand years of western habitation. I like the relative flatness, the quiet, the Lisbon refugees escaping that city's chaos. Bands of students singing or doing percussive things stirs the blood a bit. But there's a strong undercurrent of old tradition (including LGBT bias) and clearly some sort of class-based structure. If I were to re-visit, I think I'd make it home base, with a car, to visit the outlying areas dotted with vineyards and small villages. ...and I will not buy souvenirs. I will not buy souvenirs. I will not buy -. Damn.https://jauntlet.com//95854https://jauntlet.com//95854Sat, 02 Nov 2024 10:40:00 +0000Last half-day in Lisbon. It's a nice city, but frankly it felt like work with all the hills and the large volume of tourists. I'd visit again for a short, targeted stay; and being mindful of location relative to hills and interests. Checked out of the apartment, lugged bags down 19 interior steps, and then down rough cobble on steep lanes to the Rossio train station. I helped a Spanish couple figure out how to use the Left Luggage system (gesticulating is an art form), and then left my own luggage for a few hours. So, I discovered that rainstorms here are tropical downpours, not the PNW's gentle drip. (Valencia just got devastated by a storm a couple of days ago, with hundreds dead.) Two minutes and you're drenched to the core! Everyone gathers under dining umbrellas along the street and waits. Altoid tins are not waterproof... Next up was a Metro ride to the Lisboa - Oriente train station. It, along with sister Santa Apolonia station, feature stops by the Alpha Pendicular (high-speed) train that runs the length of the country. Oriente is big. A minimum of 5 floors that connect the metro underground to the CP trains, with lots of shops and services built into a mall-like space. However, note that signage is minimal. And this is a thing in Portugal. Way finding signage is close to non-existent. If you don't look at the Metro map 'before' entering the gates, you may/may not find one on the platform. Station names are few and far between on the platforms, so if the on-train reader board isn't working, you're stuck. In Oriente, after exiting the metro, I saw a single sign that pointed in the direction of the intercity trains. After exiting the building and then re-entering, I found an elevator that mentioned ticketing and went to that level. The monitors that display departures are small and infrequent, and there are none in the waiting rooms. I was telling a Portuguese woman how to get to the Metro at the same time I was asking how to get to the trains. Street names on corners are a mixed bag. I have a good sense of direction, so I study Maps before I go somewhere, and use my phone for directions as I go. Before boarding the metro, I count the number of stops to my destination. On the street, I'll count how many streets/alleys before I turn left or right (e.g., 3 cross streets, then a soft left, 2 cross streets, then a right). It's just the way it is here. The train ride was as expected - comfy 2nd class this time. I ended up sitting next to a 20-something Brasilian fellow who was traveling to Evora to visit his boyfriend that he'd met on Grindr. He'd never met a gay person my age. And gasped when I said I'd been coupled for 14 years ("that's as long as a teenager has been alive"). Yes, child... But, he was young, in love, and finding his way through life and that's pretty wonderful. The Evora train station is on the outskirts of town, so I took a taxi. Students at the local university were having some sort of raucous celebration that backed up traffic. And, being All Saints Day, a national holiday, food was a bit tricky to find. But some things are not so different here. There was a burger joint near the school that was open, and - being a university town - had 3 vegan burger options. I had the open face quinoa burger topped with orange slices, tartare sauce, and a whisper of lettuce. Okay, maybe a little different, but it was good!https://jauntlet.com//95853https://jauntlet.com//95853Fri, 01 Nov 2024 10:40:00 +0000Last evening I had thukpa (Nepalese noodle soup), and the day's woes and sores faded away with delicious comfort food. It's quick and easy to make, and I need to learn how to do that. I mean, what can be bad with noodles and delicious, savory broth? Today involved much-needed forest bathing at the Jardim Botanico de Lisboa. Part of Universidade do Lisboa, planting began in 1873 with representation from all of the Portuguese territories (in part a "we're a colonial power, too" statement). Cycads and palms are especially well represented. This garden visit brought home how much I've missed trees. The PNW, its rainforests, and relatively recent western habitation, leave us a lot of trees. Here, a few centuries of western-style occupation coupled with dense development don't leave much room for trees - especially in urban areas. You just can't plant urban trees where the streets are the width of a cow path. The botanic garden was (relatively) quiet, there were birds, ponds and fountains, and clean air. That gave my brain a much needed opportunity to reboot. To get to the garden, I got smart this time. Instead of climbing a killer hill, I took the metro to a station that had exits near the top of said hill. Sometimes I'm a slow learner. Curiously, the Rato metro station had an escalator that led to steps (i.e., steps, escalator, steps). Post-garden, a walk to Barrio Alto with grand vistas across the city from inland neighborhoods to the Tagus. The city has roughly 500,000 residents, with not quite 3 million in the metro area. Contrast with Portland's roughly 650,000 people in an urban area of 2.2 million. Lisbon, with nearly 15,000 people/sq mile contrasts with Portland at 4,800 p/sq mi; so Lisbon feels much bigger. Barrio Alto has plenty of posh shops and Michelin dining. This along with one of the most trafficked streets (i.e., cars), hills, and cobble. At the bottom of a long stretch of hill that slopes toward the Tagus is Chiado. Site of a large 1988 fire, it's restored, super touristy, and filled with spendy food, folks wandering about talking on their phones, and more posh shops (I didn't know that Stradivarius is a clothing line...). Then, back at Rossio Square, still bustling, but a little more open. Speaking of squares/plazas, there are many. Rossio is a main one, but sandwiching a building on its east side is Praca da Figuiera; just steps northwest is Praca dos Restauradores; and just northeast is Praca Martim Moniz. Those large squares are all within 5 minutes of walking time from each other - I've missed the little ones - and each has its own tempo and vibe. The travel gods are being generous again. The train strike was resolved last night with an agreement between CP (Portugal's Amtrak) and workers for increased wages. And I have just enough Navigente fare (think HOP card in Portland) to get me to the Oriente train station for tomorrow's trek. Laundry is air drying (there's a reason European electrical consumption is so much lower than in the US). Must be time for a nap before the 8 or 9 pm dining hour...https://jauntlet.com//95848https://jauntlet.com//95848Thu, 31 Oct 2024 10:40:00 +0000A fun day trip to Sintra - or what I'd call Uncle Walt's wet dream. Roughly 20 miles northwest of Lisbon. With evidence of humans back to the Paleolithic period, the town is now one of the wealthiest on the entire Iberian peninsula. The Romans, Moors, and Catholic re-conquests all made their mark. And by the late 1400s, King Manuel I liked spending summers there because of its elevation and cooler temps. By the late 1500s, wealthy people began building summer homes. The 1755 earthquake wiped out a fair bit of the town, but by the late 1700s and 1800s, the area was sort of a playground for the royal rich and famous. A roughly 3 Euro urban train ride will get you out there in about 45 minutes from central Lisbon's Rossio Square. Then you catch a local bus with a day ticket (or trust your luck with someone hawking 'speedier' rides), and head out into the forest on very winding roads to see the palaces sprinkled about. I only made it to Pena Palace, which was the last residence of Portuguese royalty. The original construction was a Middle Ages castle apparently built after an apparition of the Virgin Mary was seen. Around 1500, the castle was converted to a monastery, and the 1755 earthquake subsequently wiped it out. Ferdinand II began construction on the Romantic structure in about 1838, with most construction completed by 1847. However, Ferdinand's mum and dad had a lot to say about the decoration of the complex, so things didn't wrap up until about 1854. The 1910 Portuguese Revolution brought the property under state control, and the royals went into exile. Now let's not forget the over-the-top architecture. Long, winding cobble roads lead up to a drawbridge and gate. Towers and other elements abound, influenced by Moorish, Taj Mahal, Manueline, Renaissance and other styles. Incredible stucco and trompe-l'oiel abound. Fantastic porcelain and silver. The private dining room seats 20, and there was another larger one for those not fully part of the "in crowd". I felt sorry for all the horses who had to drag people up steep hills in carriages. There was a restaurant (not cheap, not the best), although they had a mean Chocolate Salami. I had a very good time, but I'd probably look for a skip-the-line small tour of some sort to avoid the 2-hour wait to get in. Even on a pleasant day, a mass of humans gets annoying... There are a bunch of other palaces in the neighborhood. If you're going full Princess Mode, it would be better to get a hotel in the area and spend 2 or 3 days, and get up early to avoid the worst queues. The train, itself, isn't bad at all. Standard-issue urban train with big, comfy seats. Filled to the brim with your choice of multicultural variances. Densely urbanized apartment towers along the way, on hillsides, and usually close to a train station. On the outbound trip, someone checked fares. On the return, no one bothered. Thursday, 31 October, is a country-wide train strikes. I think pretty much everything is down except for limited "essential services" (you might need a train to get to a doc appointment). So, I expect tomorrow will be cafe day. Might feet are ready for a rest! https://jauntlet.com//95845https://jauntlet.com//95845Wed, 30 Oct 2024 10:40:00 +0000A fun, unstructured day, with brunch and a wander about. Checked out the Rossio CP station that will take me to Sintra, probably tomorrow. Then past Rossio Square to Praca do Comercio and the adjacent Tagus River. It then occurred to me that the Cais do Sodre train station was nearby, and that could get me to Belem. So... Three stops later, beautiful Belem. The Monument to the Discoveries (c. 1940/1960) marks the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator and celebrates Portuguese exploration. At about 184' high, and arguably a romanticized representation of history, it offers great views of the river and city. A ways down the river is the Torre de Belem (c. 1519), part of a medieval defense system for the river. It was a 2-hour wait to get in, so I opted for gelato and water, and watched everyone else stand in line. Back toward the train station is Belem's Cultural Center, and part of that is a quite nice Contemporary Art Museum. The main exhibit starts with art from the 1920s, and progresses through present day. Cubism, Dada, Abstract Impressionism and much more. The "powerhouse" pieces were Picasso, Warhol and Leichtenstein. Although there were many, many European artists with whom I was unfamiliar - particularly from Poland, Russia and Bulgaria. It got my creative juices stirred and was definitely worth the calories. Interestingly, the gift shop was 98% books and had very little of the knick knacks you might see other places. Not sure what that was about. One thing that today brought into clearer focus is the Portuguese struggle with immigrants. There's a substantial Nepalese community in Lisbon (maybe 12,000 or so?) and they're clearly at the bottom of the food chain. Wait staff jobs, shop clerks, that sort of thing. And the ethnic Portuguese don't like them. Brasilians, particularly those with darker skin seem to fall in the same boat. As in the US, I've talked to business owners who complain that it's difficult to find help, but they deride the (black and brown) people who want to work. The offensive behavior seems more out in the open in Lisbon and has really opened my eyes to the privilege of being a white person traveling in Europe. Racism is alive and well, and the experience is not the same for everyone.https://jauntlet.com//95842https://jauntlet.com//95842Tue, 29 Oct 2024 10:40:00 +0000This was an adventurous day, and closer to the challenging end of the scale. Not bad, just long and complicated. After breakfast at the Tomar hotel, I walked to the train station to inquire about the train strike. "We don't know anything until one-half hour before the scheduled departure." A very Portuguese response! And, lo and behold, 1/2-hour before the scheduled departure, the trip was cancelled, with the next train leaving in 6 hours (arriving in Lisbon at about 11pm). The bus station, right next door, had a bus leaving in a couple of hours for only 10 Euro, and it was actually a little quicker. Bingo! It turns out that Denny and Patrick curiously arrived at just the right time to help out. I'm unclear whether or not this was planned, but they were super helpful in sorting through the changes. And we got to have some refreshment! The bus ride was through pretty countryside that gradually yielded to Lisbon's urban footprint. A maze of walkways led under a highway and to a Metro station that was fairly easy to navigate. Note that this Metro system, as far as I can tell, has zero elevators or escalators. Steps only, so just tuck those ADA fantasies away for some other destination. Two trains later, I arrived in central Lisbon where things were livening up for the dinner hour that starts about 8pm. But first, steps! Steps from the metro to the street. Then 50+ steps up a hill to another street. Turn right up a short, steep street. Then right again for an additional climb. Left at the Nepalese grocery, and there is the flat. "Only a 3 minute walk from the metro," but an 85' gain in under a quarter-mile, or roughly a 6.5% grade. The street door to the apartment opens inward to a landing that is barely big enough for one person, let alone luggage. And then a very steep climb on a narrow stairway to the second landing. So add another 20' of climbing to the destination. It's a comfortable spot, but boy howdy, make sure your pacemaker has fresh batteries! Still, it's Lisbon, and all sorts of things to explore...https://jauntlet.com//95838https://jauntlet.com//95838Mon, 28 Oct 2024 10:40:00 +0000Today turned out to be a very fun day, hosted by new friends Denny and Patrick who live here (most recently from Iowa), and with an interwoven family history (more on that later). A retired botanist and history professor, I was privileged to get an 8-hour personal tour of Tomar and nearby. The big draw is the Castle and Convento (c. 1160). In 1420, Henry the Navigator shifted the focus of the property from military to contemplative religious reflection. The original Templar church/rotunda was expanded in the 1500s. A little bit later, a 6km acqueduct was built to provide water to the complex. Amazingly beautiful architecture spanning several centuries. Monk cloisters, a kitchen, a latrine, water storage... Lots of restoration work is underway, and lots more is needed. Other highlights included the Igreja de Santa Maria do Olival (c. 1160); an old flour mill turned into artist studios; the Jewish synagogue (c. 1450) but disbanded by forced conversions in about 1496; stops for lunch and afternoon refreshments; and a short drive out to the acqueduct. Denny, as it turns out, it related in a couple of ways to my family (incestuous Church of the Brethren). A few generations back the families intermarried. And then, we discovered, his sister is married to a distant cousin with whom my family has been in touch. Something like my mother's cousin's son is married to Denny's sister, and the cousin's son's nephew, whom I've met, lives in Portland. Ya just can't get away in this world!https://jauntlet.com//95834https://jauntlet.com//95834Sun, 27 Oct 2024 10:40:00 +0000A leisurely morning in Coimbra: breakfast and a bit of a walkabout in light drip after steady rain overnight. Had a chat with Pedro, the Argentinian front desk guy; and also with Carlita, a Brasilian housekeeper, who has gay friends in LA. Friendly folk abound in the country. Took the train from Coimbra-A, the in-town local station, to Coimbra-B, the edge-of-town mainline station. Then a transfer to a Regional train to Lamarosa, and another transfer to another Regional train to Tomar. I can see landscape changing with the ride south. Some olive groves, palm trees here and there, more open pasture and remnants of fall corn crops. Train stops every 5 minutes or so at another village - and people are using the stops. Pombal, a town of about 55k was pretty hopping. Lamarosa was bucolic, with chickens crowing outside the station. Tomar is in the last 2 days of its annual festival celebrating St. Irene. Stages are set for music, barf-inducing fun rides, everything you'd expect from a 10-day party. St. Irene (635-653 CE) was a virgin martyr, sought out by a rich boy, was disparaged by a priest who also wanted her, and the jealous rich boy had her killed. Miracles happened, the truth came out, and she got her sainthood with virginity intact. Tomar, about 20,000 people, was settled by the Romans then occupied by the Moors. By 1160, the Portuguese Christians had re-taken the area, and the Knights Templar were offered property and construction on the castle and convent had begun. In the early 1300s, the Pope and French king did a deal to suppress the Templars. The Portuguese finessed a replacement order, and in the 1400s that order funded exploration by Henry the Navigator. By 1492, a large Jewish population flourished as Spain had expelled them. But it didn't take long for them to be forced into conversion or be expelled. And then in the mid-1500s they were subjected to inquisitions anyway. Met a nice fellow from Hawaii on the train. He's traveling here for 3 months, looking for a place for him and his wife to live --- all tied to the current US election. He's a retired beach bum. As he's traveling south to north, and I'm north to south, we could compare notes on beach towns that we'd visited. Just one more thought on the kindness of the Portuguese that I witness on a daily basis. At the Coimbra-B train station, a train engineer had de-boarded for a quick pit stop. On his way back to the train, he noticed a lady looking lost. He stopped, took a couple of minutes to help her sort her ticket, and then returned to the train and drove away. There's always time to help someone here... ...There's an odd sort of vibe in this town. People are polite, but very reserved and not overly friendly. The hotel staff were direct (not bad) and offered nothing extra. The restaurant staff seemed to go out of their way to avoid looking at me as if they were somehow uncomfortable with a solo diner. Could be the town's tourist fatigue, could be my cranky tiredness, whatever. The pleasant veneer seems pretty thin here. https://jauntlet.com//95831https://jauntlet.com//95831Sat, 26 Oct 2024 11:40:00 +0100Tired feet. Amazing sights and food. Happy boy. After a hotel breakfast, I walked up the hill to the university to buy a timed ticket to see the major sites of interest. It's only about a mile, but roughly a 1,500 foot climb along very narrow streets and rough cobble. Old people like me get a ticket discount, and it is worth every penny. The Joanina Library is a crown jewel. I'd rank it up there with the Sistine Chapel. Reserved on the exterior, it is Baroque overboard on the interior (no photos allowed). The walls are 6' thick to reduce humidity damage to the 70,000 books that date back centuries. A bat colony lives there, intentionally, to eat bugs that might eat the books, and they lay leather cloths over the study tables at night to protect the tables from bat shit. There's a medieval student prison - it was intended to keep naughty students under control, but not mix them with criminals from town. Adjacent is a chapel associated with the next adjacent. Dedicated to St. Michael (c. 1500s, built over something from the 1100s), the organ has over 2,000 pipes. Another Baroque extravaganza. The Palacio Real was built in the 900s to house the Moorish governor. In 1131, it became home to the 1st king of Portugal. And in 1537, the university was moved here from Lisbon. It is still actively used for academic functions. Until the late 1700s, students defended their doctoral thesis in what was once the throne room. ...lots of ongoing restoration to the building. I saw tiles being re-painted, exterior plaster being replaced, roof tile work... Another interesting place was the Chemistry Lab. The building was originally part of a Jesuit university, but in 1759 the Jesuits got kicked out as part of the Age of Enlightenment (I.e., the world really is not flat...). Philosophy, math, and physics took over in the lecture hall. There was a fun interactive exhibit great for kids teaching about light. And, I thought, a very measured discussion of the expelling of the Jesuits who were, as described in one exhibit, teaching university classes in a way that supported their religious ambitions. It was respectful, but clear why they got kicked out. The Botanical Garden was lovely, down the hill. The glass house was pretty empty (orchids widely spaced), and the shade house contained things we'd consider endemic to the PNW (e.g., ferns). Thanks to a recommendation from a Porto friend, I had an amazing lunch at Italianino, up on the hill. Apricot-stuffed ravioli with gorgonzola sauce, pistachio cannoli, tasty wine. Endless eye candy. Yes, definitely the men! But also of the Se Velha de Coimbra (c. 1140), a Romanesque church that is unusual in these parts. On the way home, I met Natalia, an older woman of indeterminate age, with short bleached hair and puss prints from neck to toe. She knew everyone on the street, radiated pizzazz, got tired of walking downhill in her puss print flip flops, and for the price of a beer allowed me to take a photo of her(that I cannot post because of, um, well, the Google fiasco). Cheers to Natalia!https://jauntlet.com//95827https://jauntlet.com//95827Fri, 25 Oct 2024 11:40:00 +0100https://jauntlet.com//95825https://jauntlet.com//95825Thu, 24 Oct 2024 11:40:00 +0100Lunch date with a new expat-hopeful yesterday, and coffee/nata date with expat friends in Bonfim. Early supper today with another future ex-pat. So go the days... May Google account has imploded, locking me out almost everything Google: Gmail, messaging, maps, Drive, etc. Some kind of combination of hacking attempts (?) and having incorrectly set up account recovery means I get a clean slate in the digital world. Total hassle in one way, kind of refreshing in another. Too bad it happened in the middle of a trip! So, yesterday, in addition to social get-togethers, I set up a new Google account and email address. Managed to get back on the laptop under the new setup, download my password manager, and see the basics. My phone, still under the old account, is useful because I have biometric logins for apps, so I can see things like train tickets there. Old = phone, new = laptop, and that's about what I can do before I get home. No photos going forward! Speaking of implosions, train strikes start up on Friday. Lisbon urban trains for 2 days, then more widespread, building up to 31 October before dying down. For the most part, buses can take the place of trains - I've already purchased one bus ticket from Tomar > Lisbon (10 Euro, roughly 85 miles). The challenge is that I can't load the ticket on my phone (old account), so I need to figure out how to go analog with print (maybe the hotel tomorrow?). Or, I'll have to buy a 2nd ticket once I get to Tomar. Speaking of implosions, there were riots in Lisbon last night. Couldn't quite tell if it was over the Middle East, housing or immigration. Looked like burning cars and that sort of thing. And today, in Porto, someone said there's supposed to be some sort of right-wing demonstration. This is the 3rd safest country in the world, so not overly worried. Haven't located media coverage on that either, so just staying aware and lurking below the digital radar. Meanwhile, laundry, packing, and a walk to the Crystal Garden I hope. As folks here say, things in Portugal move on their own time, and eventually you get there.https://jauntlet.com//95818https://jauntlet.com//95818Wed, 23 Oct 2024 11:40:00 +0100Day trip today to Braga, which is roughly 35 miles north of Porto. I have to say that figuring out distances is very disorienting here. What looks like a vast distance on the map is almost nothing compared to the US where everything is so spread out. That's true whether in town or between towns. Anyway, on the Alpha Pendicular (high-speed train), Braga is about 1/2 hour. Maybe twice that on the slower Urbano trains that make more stops. You land right at the edge of the main tourist district and can walk pretty much anywhere you want to go. And there are buses as well. My Google account is stuck in limbo for a couple of days, so no photos yet. But the Igrejia de Misericordia de Braga (c. 1560) was over the top opulent in the Renaissance style. It was interesting that this church was clearly very actively in use. Fresh flowers were maintained, older ladies were praying at various altars, that sort of thing. Had a good lunch at a vegan restaurant - 16 Euro got you one plate at the buffet, 20 Euro got you unlimited plates. It was beautifully presented and remarkably under-seasoned in what I've come to expect from Portuguese food. Kind of like the lack of color in clothing, the food trends toward tasty but bland. Another interesting spot were Roman baths dating back to the 100s. On a hill with beautiful vistas, the baths were updated 3 times after initial construction, roughly every 100 years or so. Immediately adjacent, and barely excavated, are the remains of an ampitheater, testifying to the significance of Bracara Augusta to the Romans. Braga is such a pretty city. Humans have occupied the area since about 6000 BC. The Romans moved in in the early 100s BC. Bracara Augusta was founded in 16 BC. The cathedral had objects dating back to about 100 CE, and the city played an important role in the Christianization of the Iberian peninsula. Bits of medieval walls still remain, and I will say that certain parts of the city definitely had an "ancient vibe" to them that I haven't felt in other places. Parks, plazas and churches dot the city at every turn. It's public spaces are more open than Porto's, there are some trees, and it's more quiet - perhaps because cars are driving on asphalt and not cobble on the major streets. Lovely day trip to a beautiful town. https://jauntlet.com//95813https://jauntlet.com//95813Mon, 21 Oct 2024 11:40:00 +0100