Peru

Meja inca site on beach, Peru

Thu, 07 Nov 2024 16:10:00 -0500

Our border plans got delayed, so we decided to spend one more night in Peru and stumbled upon an amazing archaeological site right on the beach of Lake Titicaca. Best part? We could drive right up to it—and it was completely free! But the charm wore off a bit when we saw the piles of trash scattered around. We'd been warned, but it was still surprising. The site has this natural amphitheater feel, probably perfect for local parties, but it seems no one bothers to clean up afterward. Trash bins were there, but it didn’t look like they’d been emptied in ages. Spending our last night here brought mixed feelings. Peru has so much beauty and history, yet the trash issue really stands out, especially once you leave the city centers. Such a shame to see this incredible landscape treated like a dump.

Willca Uta (Inca Door), Peru

Tue, 05 Nov 2024 16:10:00 -0500

After sorting out the dog certificates in Puno, we made our way toward the Bolivia border, with a detour to Willca Uta. This hidden gem near Lake Titicaca is known for its mystical rock formations and ancient stone-carved structures, rumored to have spiritual significance. We found a quiet, flat parking spot tucked behind the site—a magical, serene place where we could camp. For just 5 soles per person, we gained access to the area and spent two days wandering through the striking landscapes, surrounded by massive red rocks and ancient carvings. On our second day, we even crossed paths with a Swiss motorcyclist we’d met near Cusco almost a month ago!

Sillusanti and Uros Islands, Peru

Sun, 03 Nov 2024 16:10:00 -0500

In the morning we explored the ruins of Sillusanti burial ruins, where we had camped out the night before. Then travelled to and made our way down to the lakeside. The city itself wasn’t exactly picturesque, but had a parade party that included masked dancers, so we stopped to celebrate along side them! Then we were excited to explore the famous Uros Islands—and we’d already scoped out a free parking spot nearby! The next morning, we negotiated a boat ride with a local woman and her two children. She captained the small motorboat while her 13-year-old daughter chatted with Ciara, sharing the fascinating history of Uros. These floating islands are unique; they’re constructed entirely from layers of totora reeds and have been home to indigenous communities for centuries. The islands feel like another world, gently swaying beneath our feet! After our adventure on the water, we drove into the center of town and parked at the bus station—a bit plain but very safe. For lunch the following day, we treated ourselves to a local favorite I’d found online. It was a bit of a walk, but so worth it! The place was buzzing with local families, students, and regulars, all enjoying delicious food in a lively setting. Unforgettable!

Drive through Cactus Canyon to Lampa, Peru

Sat, 02 Nov 2024 16:10:00 -0500

Today was one of those days that felt surreal from start to finish! We began with a morning walk through the breathtaking Tanajani Canyon, enveloped by towering red cliffs and silence, save for the faint wind through the rocks. Next, we drove through a winding mountain pass, greeted by incredible, otherworldly plants—particularly the giant Puya Raimondii cacti, some towering over us like guardians of the Andes. Their surreal appearance added an almost mythical quality to the landscape. Around midday, we found a perfect spot by ancient ruins along a river to enjoy a simple picnic. The quiet magic of the place, surrounded by stone remnants and the soothing river, was unforgettable. Our day ended in the charming town of Lampa, with its two cozy town squares. We parked next to the historic church and treated ourselves to rotisserie chicken from a local spot—less than £10 for all three of us! It was the perfect close to a perfect day.

Tinjani Canyon, Peru

Thu, 31 Oct 2024 16:10:00 -0500

After a brief stint back on the main R3, we turned off for the hidden gem of Tanajani Canyon. But first, we couldn’t resist stopping by a few roadside farm shops. Fresh cheese and homemade yogurt from the locals made for a delicious snack—and a reminder of just how abundant and rich the Andes can be. Tanajani Canyon itself is a breathtaking, lesser-known wonder. Towering red rock formations stretch up around us, shaped over centuries by wind and water. We arrived, set up our camp, and soon a local woman approached, requesting a fee for entry. We’d read that people sometimes ask for unofficial payments, so we gently questioned her about the lack of posted signs. She graciously allowed us to stay without paying. The next morning, we hiked through the canyon’s winding paths, awed by the peacefulness. Eventually, we accidentally found ourselves near the ladies house, which felt a little awkward, so we decided it was time to move on. Tanajani is truly a unique slice of nature, and we left with memories as rich as the scenery.

Lake side!, Peru

Wed, 30 Oct 2024 20:50:00 -0500

On our way to camp by the lake, we made two unforgettable stops that added a unique flavor to the day. Our first stop was Rumicolca, the ancient stone gateway marking the old city limits. Built in pre-Inca times as a defensive entrance, it’s a towering piece of history, beautifully preserved—and best of all, free to explore! We spent time admiring the stonework, and as luck would have it, we struck up a conversation with the local caretaker. He shared stories about the site's role in guarding against invaders, adding depth to our visit. Next, we followed a tip and hunted down some chicha, a fermented corn drink that’s practically a local rite of passage. We ventured into a small village, found the unmarked blue door, and knocked. Inside, a lady filled our bottle from an enormous vat in the corner for just a few coins. Ciara tried it that night, it was surprisingly mild in alcohol but full of character (and questionable hygiene!). Finally, we detoured off the main road to a quiet lake, where we found pink flamingos. The sight of these beautiful birds against the sunset was a magical moment and the perfect start to our adventure in the high Andes.

Exiting Cusco!, Peru

Wed, 30 Oct 2024 16:10:00 -0500

Leaving the vibrant city of Cusco, with its colorful markets, fascinating museums, and lively streets, we set off toward Tipón—our final archaeological stop before venturing deeper into the Andes. The drive took us winding up through mountain passes, climbing from Cusco’s 3,600 meters to a breathtaking 4,000 meters. The ascent alone was an adventure. Tipón itself was worth every twist and turn. Known for its intricate water channels and terraces, it’s a masterpiece of Inca engineering, built to honor water and agriculture. Clear streams flowed down gracefully across the terraces, a reminder of the skill and reverence the Incas held for nature. Later, we stopped in a small town famous for its bread, known locally as ch’uta—deliciously large, fluffy rounds that are ideal for sharing. Another nearby village is celebrated (or infamous) for its roast guinea pig, a local delicacy we decided to brave! While it had a unique flavor, the lack of meat and the familiarity of the animal itself left us a bit hesitant to try it again.

Cusco, Peru

Sat, 26 Oct 2024 16:10:00 -0500

On our journey to Cusco, we stopped at the ancient Inca ruins of Tambomachay and Sacsayhuamán. While Tambomachay had its own charm, Sacsayhuamán was truly the highlight—its grandeur rivals even Machu Picchu. This massive ceremonial site features gigantic stones so precisely fit together that it's hard to believe they were moved and assembled over 500 years ago. Guides explained that each stone was meticulously carved to fit like a jigsaw puzzle, though some theories suggest a more mystical approach. One video suggested that the Incas might have used a “stone-softening paste” to shape rocks, allowing the upper layers to mold and fit into place with incredible precision. What truly amazed us was Sacsayhuamán’s earthquake-resistant design. The stones here are said to “dance” during tremors, shifting without collapsing and then settling back into position—an architectural marvel that left us in awe.

Moray crop circles and Pisac ruins!, Peru

Fri, 25 Oct 2024 16:10:00 -0500

Our day began with an early start to explore the remarkable agricultural terraces of Moray, nestled in Peru's Sacred Valley. These circular terraces reveal just how advanced the Inca agricultural knowledge was—they used a unique, tiered system to create distinct microclimates across each level. In fact, temperature differences between the top and bottom terraces can reach up to 10°C! This innovative design allowed the Incas to experiment with different crops, likely one reason why Peru boasts around 4,000 varieties of potatoes. Seeing these terraces up close was both humbling and awe-inspiring. After soaking in Moray's genius, we continued on to Pisaq. Known for its laid-back, hippy vibe, Pisaq was an ideal spot to park and take in some local culture before tackling the climb to its renowned ruins in the morning. The hike up was steeper and more challenging than anticipated, but the sweeping views of the Sacred Valley and the breathtaking ancient structures made it all worth it. We captured some fantastic photos along the way to share the beauty of this unforgettable journey.

The crop circles are just behind these three people

Candid

The walk to Pisac ruins

Walking up to the top of Pisac ruins

The citadel and its protective rock

Natural slide.. very painful and not recommended!

🌄 Exploring the Salt Mines of Maras, Peru

Thu, 24 Oct 2024 16:10:00 -0500

We made our way through the foothills of the Sacred Valley near Cusco, where open skies and endless camping spots awaited. Tucked into the hillside, we visited salt mines of Maras—an incredible network of salt pools that have been in use since Inca times. The salt here is harvested from mineral-rich water flowing from a natural spring. Ingeniously, the Incas channeled this salty water into thousands of shallow ponds. As the sun evaporated the water, pure salt crystals were left behind, ready for collection. This method provided a steady supply of salt, essential for preserving food through tough seasons. It was here that the Incas created ch’arki—a preserved meat from llama, and one of the only Quechua words to make it into English as “jerky.” Visiting Maras felt like stepping back in time, seeing the resourcefulness of the Incas woven into the landscape—a reminder of how they skillfully adapted to their environment to sustain their communities.

Driving through the Sacred Valley

Finn loves the drives

The salt mines behind these two women

The salt mines behind this young lady

The Sacred Valley's Maras Salt Mines, consisting of thousands of small salt pools on terraced slopes, have been in use since pre-Inca times and continue to be an important source of artisanal salt today

aras, Peru, salt extraction has been practiced for centuries, where natural springs are channeled into terraces, creating a unique salt production method still used toda

🏛️ Exploring Ollantaytambo, Peru

Tue, 22 Oct 2024 16:10:00 -0500

On the way from Machu Picchu we needed to climb the Andes to cross the sacred valley, climbing to 5000m, as we hit the summit one of our tires blow! Requiring us to change to our spare at altitude, in clouds, in the dark, but we did it!! On our second visit to Ollantaytambo, we finally bought tickets to explore the ruins—and what an experience it was! This charming village is a place where history flows through every corner, quite literally. Water channels still run past the small, enclosed courtyards, providing a glimpse into how the Incas engineered their towns with such advanced infrastructure. The Inca foundations here are remarkable, seamlessly integrated with more recent stonework above. These ancient structures are a mix of fortifications and agricultural terraces, though the exact purpose of some remains a mystery. What’s especially fascinating is how the Incas developed intricate terracing and irrigation without written records or even the invention of the wheel. Yet, they created incredibly sturdy and visually stunning architecture that has stood for centuries. The ruins are a marvel, revealing an Incan world that balanced both defense and agriculture within a beautiful mountain backdrop. Ollantaytambo’s stonework and water channels are a testament to a civilization that thrived with inventive design and practical elegance. This place is truly a gateway to understanding the brilliance of the Inca Empire.

More amazing water features, this was the first 'bath' and water then continued to other parts of the citadel

We trekked up to what we believed is some sort of look out post..

The Ollantaytambo ruins were an important Inca site serving as a military, religious, and agricultural center, and were a stronghold where the Incas resisted the Spanish conquest

The incas were extremely small, therefore doorways are tiny.

Stone work that is impressive even for todays standards!

Finn always perches on the edge.. looking for pray!

We hiked to the other side, these are corn storage areas, since they are high the temperature is lower and the corn stays fresh longer, those Incas were genius!

That's quite a pose

Some ruins

The bumps were used to help move the rocks

The stone work is amazing, as pointed out by these two

The stone work was impressive, as pointed out by these two

The door ways were tiny

We loved Ollantaytambo

They didn't even bother looking up

This is an Alpaca and Lucia.

Selfie!

This is an Alpaca and Ciara

We got a blow out (not just a puncture but a massive hole 10cm round!At 4000m as we crossed back over the Andes.. all hands on deck to try and change the wheel before it gets dark!

2 hours, a record!

We didn't manage to change the tire before dark 😔

We managed to change the spare, but needed to ditch the burst tire

🌄 Machu Picchu Adventure, Peru

Sat, 19 Oct 2024 16:10:00 -0500

No trip to Peru is complete without experiencing the wonder of Machu Picchu, the iconic hilltop citadel believed to have been a retreat for Incan royalty. But getting there is a journey in itself! There are a few ways to reach Machu Picchu: you can trek, take a train, or do what we did—drive over the Andes on winding, nerve-wracking mountain roads until we reached a spot where we could walk along the railway tracks into Aguas Calientes. This small town is the gateway to Machu Picchu, and we had to buy tickets the day before through a quirky token system, then either take a bus or hike to the actual ruins. The remoteness is part of what makes Machu Picchu so magical. Since the Spanish never discovered it, the site remains incredibly well-preserved. As the ruins sit high in the clouds, you need a little luck for them to clear—but when they do, it’s a view like no other. The lush green mountains, steep terraces, and ancient stonework are breathtaking. With all its beauty, Machu Picchu is also a popular spot! After two nights in Aguas Calientes with Finn, we were ready to hike back to Konokono, our trusty ride. A perfect wrap to an unforgettable adventure!

As we drove to our camp, coffee?

The citadel

Camp spot an the way to Machu Picchu

Brief walk from our camp spot, Incatambo, pre Inca Ruins.

Practice run, the day before the big hike

View from my cabin!

Almost there!

We followed the train tracks the whole way!

The early morning walk to get to Machu Picchu

We started our hike at 6am, to try and make it to Aquas Calientes early - to buy tickets for Machu Picchu

Following the railway lines.

Aguas Calientes, also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo, is a small Peruvian town located in the Urubamba River Valley,

Inca Cola for energy!

The Peruvian Inca Orchid, is a unique and ancient breed distinguished by its lack of hair, this guy had swag!

Old man stumbling down the mountain

We hiked to the top of Huayna Picchu, perched high in the Andes Mountains with views over Machu Picchu.

The clouds parted for us!

Iconic!

The clouds cleared!

Another great shot with Lucia and Ciara

Magical!

Lucia has a home made walking stick, long story! What a view!

All three of us, and some old ruins behind us..

We only walked the edge or the citadel, since tickets allow different access.

Ciara Arrives!, Peru

Sun, 13 Oct 2024 16:10:00 -0500

The day Ciara arrived, we left Cusco right away, looking to get to a lower altitude. At 3,600 meters, Cusco’s elevation was challenging, so we headed for Pisac, which sits at a (slightly) easier 3,000 meters. Pisac turned out to be an eclectic little hub, a magnet for travelers and spiritual seekers alike. Known for its ayahuasca ceremonies, the town has an almost mystical vibe. We even ran into a couple of guys from New York who’d tried an ayahuasca ceremony the night before. They laughed about their experience, saying one of them had to try “frog serum” injected through a tiny snake bite to prepare for another go at it a few days later—an amusing, if intense, process! Though Pisac was beautiful, we decided to spend just one night. Machu Picchu was calling, so we made plans to head there first, with hopes to revisit Pisac on our way back.

Finn buying gifts

We saw bull rings everywhere, parking next to them to camp in some cases. Bullfighting remains a controversial tradition in Peru, where efforts to ban it have been rejected by the top court, and some politicians even seek to protect it as a form of cultural heritage

The waterways of Ollantaytambo are a remarkable example of Inca engineering and urban planning - can you see the fresh water in the centre of the street?

Peru markets 'Mercado' are bussing with colours

Peru is home to over 50 varieties of corn, including the large-kernel choclo and the vibrant purple corn, each integral to traditional dishes, drinks, and snacks

Escape plan?

Circling Cusco whilst we get the windscreen fixed!, Peru

Fri, 20 Sep 2024 16:10:00 -0500

After the unfortunate windscreen incident in Quillabamba, we quickly reported it to the local police and left in a bit of a hurry, still rattled by what had happened. We were eager to get moving and put some distance between us and the scene. We contacted a garage in Cusco. They assured us they could help, though they needed time to source a replacement windscreen. Konokono was still technically drivable, but with the damaged glass, visibility was limited. We decided to brave the journey anyway, keeping to a cautious pace. The drive over the Andes turned out to be one of the most nerve-wracking experiences of my life. The road climbed over 5,000 meters and wound through misty clouds along a narrow, single-lane zigzag road. With our cracked windscreen adding to the already limited visibility, we could barely see anything at times. There were moments we crept along almost blindly, trusting the road would stay under our wheels as we climbed. Finally, we crossed the mountains and stayed in Ollantaytambo on the way, and finally reached Cusco safely. We spent the next week there while waiting for a new windscreen to arrive from Lima—not exactly a hardship since Cusco is such a beautiful place to explore! After the windscreen was fixed we spend time exploring the local area prior to Ciara joining us!

Ollantaytambo was beautiful and will be a destination we return to

Ollantaytambo

Short hike to overlook the ruins

Cusco

inca city entrance, where we had lunch with a German cyclist

inca city entrance

Town centre parking!

✨ Family Travel Update: Special Edition! ✨, Peru

Sat, 31 Aug 2024 16:10:00 -0500

Quillabamba, Peru

Sat, 24 Aug 2024 16:10:00 -0500

We planned a 4-6 week volunteering stay while we awaited Ciara’s arrival. 🌍✨ We quickly settled into a routine: Lucia worked in the mornings, and I shopped and prepared lunch—sometimes squeezing in a swim! 🏊‍♀️ In the afternoons, Lucia would work or get creative with origami for the kids’ lessons. 🎨✂️ Things were going great, and we found a cozy spot on the outskirts of the city. 🏡 On weekends, we ventured out to explore stunning waterfalls, ancient ruins, and riverside camps. 🌊🏞️ However, nearly a month in, we had a local guy nearby who took drugs. At first, he was harmless—serenading a bikini poster he found! 🎤😅 But then, he had a friend who wasn’t so nice. One night at 4 AM, he threw rocks at our windscreen, which was really scary! 😳 We filed a police report and headed to Cusco to find a replacement window. 🚗💨 These pictures capture our time in the city, including Lucia’s volunteering. It’s sad that her students miss out, but we’ll be okay—shaken but not stirred! 💪✨

School day!

Weekend break!

In class!

Took the opportunity to mend the stairs!

Semolina!

Shopping

Walks at the weekend

Walking near Machu Picchu

More water collection!

Weekend get away

Filling up with water!

Not so great ruins!

Beforevthe children colour them in

Lucias handiwork

Lucia origami was displayed by the children

Weekend excursion!

The end 🔚

Cheese and coffee!, Peru

Thu, 22 Aug 2024 16:10:00 -0500

🚗 We drove close to Cusco, the ancient Inca capital, but turned north before reaching the city, winding our way through beautiful farmlands. 🌾 We made a delightful stop to buy cheese directly from the farm! 🧀 Now, we’re getting closer to Quillabamba, where Lucia will be volunteering. With a couple of nights to spare before our arrival, we found a cozy spot in a tiny village. 🌄 Soon after, a lovely local lady named Marina approached us, eager to know our plans. She insisted we visit her home the next day to meet her family at their coffee farm, promising us fresh coffee! ☕️ We happily agreed, and the following day, we hiked through the rainforest to find her. 🌳 Her husband and son were incredibly welcoming! We enjoyed delicious coffee, with her husband grinding fresh beans just for us. ☕️❤️ We ended up staying two nights before heading to the town where Lucia will volunteer!

Fresh cheese!

Showing us around the coffee plantation!

What an amazing family

Grinding us some fresh coffee

Killarumlyoq ruins - spectacular 😊 , Peru

Wed, 21 Aug 2024 16:10:00 -0500

📸 These pictures are from the next day! We drove just a few kilometers to visit some ruins, but here’s the twist: everyone else travels to these ruins via Cusco, and we were coming from the opposite direction! 🚗💨 All the signs were pointing the wrong way, so we had to stop and make a U-turn to figure it out! 🌀 When we finally arrived, we couldn’t find anyone to pay the entrance fee! So, we parked and walked in all alone—it was absolutely spectacular! 🌄✨ The photos really capture the magic of the place! On our way out, we REALLY tried to pay, but still found no one around. Maybe next time we’ll visit with Ciara and settle the fee! 🤷‍♂️💰

Views from the road!

The night stop

The stone work is amazing!

We had the ruins to ourselves

Parked up!

Finn loved the freedom!

Huancarama - whoops, challenging short cut!, Peru

Tue, 20 Aug 2024 16:10:00 -0500

🌄 We’re still soaking in the breathtaking views of the mountain pass roads! 😍 But then we hit a fork in the road, and I made a judgment call that took us down a tiny track winding through the mountains and quaint villages. 🚵‍♂️✨ It seemed like a shortcut, but with darkness creeping in and the road getting tricky, I was starting to wonder if we’d made a mistake. Suddenly, like magic, a small pull-out appeared right at the mountain's edge—just the perfect size for us! 🏔️✨ Accommodation sorted! Plus, with such a narrow road, we’re completely off the beaten path—no passersby here! 🚫

On the edge!

Just before dark 😊

Locked in over the weekend!, Peru

Sat, 17 Aug 2024 16:10:00 -0500

🌄 Amazing views surround us as we discover a spot next to the river where they’re dredging stone. We ask the workers if we can camp out, and they say it’s no problem! 🚫🏕️ However, they inform us that they’ll be closing the entrance until Monday, which means we can’t leave. But here’s the best part: no one can come in either! 🌊 We have the entire river to ourselves, complete with our very own small beach! 🏖️ What an adventure!

Hitchhiker 🕸️

The plants are looking awesome 😎

All alone!

Ayacucho, Peru

Wed, 14 Aug 2024 16:10:00 -0500

We drove in and out of Ayacucho, just stopping for some shopping before hitting the road again. 🛒🚗 The scenery was absolutely stunning! 🌄 We took a break to hike up to a prehistoric cave, which was a steep climb of over 600m. 🏞️ Although the cave itself was a bit disappointing, the walk was a fantastic way to stretch our legs. Finn, our furry companion, loved the freedom—it's refreshing to see how Peruvians embrace dogs, as we hardly ever see them on leashes! 🐾❤️ It was a lovely adventure! The nights location turned out really well, just off the road but in a forest and close to a small village that sold bread - very secluded and we stayed a few nights!

View from the top of the walk

Finn wondering why we walked up to see this

Walking the irrigation river ways