Malaya for Christmas

George Town, Malaysia

Mon, 01 Jan 2024 02:40:00 +0800

Langkawi, Malaysia

Sat, 23 Dec 2023 02:40:00 +0800

Wednesday 20th December Kuah, Langkawi We spent a pretty boring day yesterday, all for a 35 minute flight! Unfortunately our flight wasn’t until 4pm and there were a few hours to kill. An accident on the way to the airport ensured a longer taxi ride and after checking out at noon, we only had a few hours at the airport. Air Asia is obviously a low cost airline and I recall only paying $30 eachway. Having said that, they were efficient, on time and as comfortable as any. The male flight attendant was dressed as someone from Star Trek and the stewardess, like she had just come from a ‘catwalk’, nevertheless both smart. My first impressions of Langkawi (we have been there before, but it is a vague memory) was how much cheaper it was than Penang! Now I mention this with ‘full disclosure’, I judge most places by the price of beer, here it was at least half price, if not more! This is apparently due to the ‘duty free’ status Langkawi has. Logically, if the government artificially inflates the price of alcohol to deter Muslims from drinking, then it stands to reason when the tax is removed, its going to be pretty cheap, here less than $2 for a 500 ml can of Tiger. Another irony, this place is so obviously more ‘devout’ than the mainland! The hotel in which we are staying, is a ‘muslim friendly’ hotel, complete with an in room prayer mat, a Koran by the bed and an arrow on the ceiling pointing to Mecca. No alcohol is sold here and nothing eaten that is non halal. Having said all of that, the guests (I think we are the only Europeans) are so friendly, as are the staff. The breakfast although mainly catering for Malays had enough to keep us from starving. Today is obviously going to be one of discovery, our room (which is first class and on the corner of the building) looks out on the commercial area and both the mountains and sea. Thursday 21st December Kuah Langkawi Most South Eastern Asian countries are great to explore during the day, because the locals are not stupid enough to be out walking and shopping during the heat of the day and of coarse they are working. So it’s always a good time to explore. Had we explored the same area at a weekend or evening, things would have been far more hectic. Malays are very family oriented and any leisure areas are full of picnicers, family gatherings and ironically, canoodling youngsters keeping away from the eyes of their families. When we walked towards Kuah central and the parks and beaches, we were greeted with peace and solitude. The only people other than us, the workers sweeping or cleaning. The sea was so beautiful, with small boats scattered amongst just as many small islands. The seashore had many benches to sit and watch under the shady trees. Just the occasional ‘put put’ of a passing small boat broke the near silence, as the ripples lazily lapped onto the white sand. Truly lovely. Only 200 metres behind us, was the busy coast road through Kuah, though you would never know it! We walked towards the huge Sea Eagle statue/structure, along a shady coastal path and only passed the occasional person. We were lucky enough to spot very large white egrets and then be entertained by a group of Sea Otters. I say Sea Otters, because although the entertained us in a water lilly filled pond, we later saw them swimming out to sea. The Eagle is in fact a White Bellied Sea Eagle and the structure is there as a symbol of the island. Legend has it, that two Malay words ‘helang’ meaning eagle and ‘kawi’ meaning reddish brown come together as Lang-kawi. The statue is truly huge and what I originally saw as a bit of a ‘tacky’ construction, became quite an amazing and intricate statue as I got closer. We walked back through, what I now know to be the Legenda Park. It is obviously named for its depictions by other statues of fables and legends passed down through the generations. Apart from some truely amazing and sometimes humorous explanations and statues, another attraction was the birdlife, should you stop, sit, watch and listen. We saw the tiniest olive green, bright yellow and interesting birds by sitting still in the shade and then were entertained by a group of Toucans, dining on the fruit of the numerous palms. It was a good walk of 7 kilometres in total, but over a 3 hour period. The abundant shade and a supply of water, made it a really enjoyable morning. Friday 22nd December 2023 Kuah, Langkawi. We didn’t intend to have another big walking day after yesterday, but it happened. Somehow we managed another 8.5 kilometres. I admit this is over a period, with a good few ‘sitting down’ times, watching the world go buy and indeed yesterday, watching some different troops of monkeys going about their day. There are apparently several types of monkeys on Langkawi and we were lucky today to see two of them yesterday. The first troop were Macaque’s, they were basically gathering what they could on the fringes of the tourist area near the Langkawi Pier. It’s always entertaining to watch them, especially the younger ones, swinging and playing on low hanging tree branches. Getting too close to them is not wise however, the head male sits aloof from the rest and at times looks cute. Getting too close or if you look (to him) like approaching them, he can gnarl his teeth and advance on you in a very aggressive way. Far more serene and not so easy to photograph, were the Dusky Leaf Monkeys. They were black with very pretty faces and long tails. We just came across them by chance, they gave us quite a shock as they swung through the trees next to the path. We are beginning to feel alittle more at home in the hotel now. It’s quite disconcerting to be the only European at breakfast. Debbie is usually, the only woman not to be wearing a hijab and certainly shorts. Men however wear as they wish. After saying all of this, we have never been within talking range of anyone, without them asking where we are from and if we are enjoying their country. Where as in the more touristy areas of the island, dress codes are far more relaxed, here it is far more devout. Saturday 23rd December Kuah, Langkawi This will be our last full day in Langkawi, before leaving for the mainland and some time in Georgetown. We had a stroll through downtown Kuah yesterday. On a Friday morning it was very quiet, at times resembling a ghost town. It was good to walk, as all of the different coloured shops have undercover walkways, usually tiled and kept impeccably clean by the shop proprietors, they also provide shade and if any wind is in the right direction, its like natural air conditioning. Comparing the temperatures here, they are no warmer than home at the moment, its the humidity that drains you. We have learnt to sit as often as possible, if only for a few minutes. Whilst sitting yesterday, we were entertained by another troop of Dusky Leaf Monkeys. Because we were sitting quietly, the monkeys carried on with their normal routine (see photos). Some chilling, two mothers were sharing the young ginger coloured baby, which they passed to each other at intervals and the younger ones swung around the branches playfully. Add the monkeys to the huge monitor lizards and birdlife and it was another eventful day. We had a look in one of the numerous Duty Free Shops here and found one the reasons, other than beautiful beaches, why tourists flock here. Top named vodka and gin started at $13 Australian (£6.50) a litre. Even a can of beer was less than a dollar a can! Apparently chocolate is also a good buy. If you are a beach person with a taste for cheap Asian meals and cheap booze, this could be your cup of tea. Most International airlines fly here, including Singapore Airlines. Sunday 24th December Kuah,Langkawi I think we will always remember Langkawi for monkey’s. Again yesterday, more Dusky Leaf Monkeys. I could sit and watch them for hours and the funniest, obviously the youngsters! Saturday certainty brought a change in pace to Kuah. Lots of shops were closed, convenience stores surprisingly amongst them. It is going to be interesting to see what happens at Christmas. There are a few Christmas signs around, but certainly no Nativity Scenes. Whether the decorations are just there for the benefit of tourists, remains to be seen. Langkawi has been okay. We didn’t come here for the beaches and diving, as many do. We rather liked the locals, although rather conservative, just like anywhere else in the world, once you make the effort, you are rewarded with warmth and friendliness. One thing I think we could learn from them, is pride in their island and their real pleasure that you are enjoying it. Local food and alcohol is very cheap here, but like many other asian countries, non-nationals are charged often double the price for admission or tours. Today, we leave for the mainland and a week in Georgetown. Lagenda Park, a place I have written about before, tells the mythical stories by statue and information boards, of how Langkawi was created. I will finish this blog by including a little amusing piece that describes how many of the islands got their names. “Dayang Butang was a giant guardian spirit, who kept watch over the islands in the north-west of Langkawi. The ladies defences included her pet lion and poison from the tuba root, both potent weapons for her protection. Hence, the two islands closest to Palau Dayang Butang , whose silhouette resembles that of a reclined pregnant giant, named Palo Singah Basah, (Great Lion Island) and Palo, (poisonous root island). The story goes that a group of rude merchants failed to pay the obligatory respects to Dang Butang . As they passed by the islands, rudely awakened by their intrusion, she summoned her pet lion to dispatch the trespassers. She arose the spirits of wind and water, stirring up a tropical storm, that unleashed its fury on the incoming fleet of sailors. The howling winds and tossing waves crashed the vessels on Palo Jong Junk Island, hence the remains of the vessels. In the stormy affair, a cargo of black and white water buffaloes escape to Palau Goobang (stable Island) , and Palau, Kubang Laut, (Sea Stable Island), while the white buffaloes sheltered at Palo (white water buffalo island) . Yet other boats laden with rice were stranded at Palo Barris Bassa (wet rice island). A prince once ate some half cooked rice during a wedding feast. He suffered the indigestion and farted at two spots now known as Palau, Kentet Pasa (Big Fart Island )and Palo Kentet Kencil (Small Fart Island). “

Prayer Mat in cupboard

Mecca

Room

View

Sunrise from hotel

Our hotel

White Bellied Eagle

Toucan

Boss Macaque

Dusky Leaf Monkey

Macaques

Kuah

Dusky Leaf Monkey

Penang, Malaysia

Sun, 17 Dec 2023 02:40:00 +0800

Saturday 16th December, Tanjung Bungah, Penang Malaysia We are staying in a 23 storey hotel block on the north coast of Penang Island, in a hotel called the Rainbow Paradise. We have stayed here twice before over the years and enjoyed the benefits that go with any hotels. Since Covid, it appears that many of the rooms here have been bought privately and used as holiday lets or, who knows by the owners. The room where we are staying is on the 17th floor and one of those lets. The room has a decent view of the Straights of Malacca, good wifi and nice expansive balcony, however lacks breakfast and any housekeeping. It’s not really a problem because in Malaya, food is cheap and mini markets and restaurants are numerous. We arrived at lunchtime yesterday via a taxi, from the rather small Penang International airport. Like a lot of South East Asian countries, taxis are hired from a taxi ticket office on the airport. Its a first class idea, because the fare is pre determined, the dispatcher tells the driver where you are going with no language barrier and because the cost is rigid, it doesn’t matter what the traffic is like or how long it takes. Our trip took over an hour through horrendous traffic, but our fare of 54 ringgets ($19 Australian), was the cost to us. Penang, like the rest of Malaysia is a predominantly Muslim country with a large Hindu (Indian) and a much smaller Christian population. Its not as clean and pristine as its Singapore neighbour, but nor as hectic and challanging as some of its other ones. Huge trees, huge apartment blocks and a smattering of Mosques and Hawker Centres (open air restaurants, usually with plastic chairs and tables, served by many differnt vendors) make up the predominant scenery After arriving at the hotel and waiting for our room to become available, we for the first time felt the amazing humidity of the region. Airplane, airport and taxi had protected us from the 90% humidity now enveloping us. The temperature was very comparable to Brisbane, but the humidity made it far more uncomfortable. Sunday 17th December Tanjung Bungah The area is blessed with all manner of restaurant's, from local food, Indian, Chinese and even though to German. Much to my dismay in a Muslim country, pork is a predominant ingredient. We went to a restaurant last night advertised as an East meets West Fusion place. Dishes ranging from Malay Satays through to burgers and chips. We chose the East West option of pulled pork, rice and vegetables. I should have thought through my answer however, when the owner asked what spice level we required. Now I like to think I’m not only tolerant of spicy food, but prefer it. I told her that on a scale of 1 to 10, maybe 7. I thought I was allowing for a Malay’s obvious higher tolerance level. Don’t get me wrong, the food was lovely and once I realised the red chilli pieces in the rice were big enough to separate on my plate, I was able to finish the meal without washing down every mouthful with another bottle of Tiger. When the owner took my plate, she only smiled at the pile of red chillies and probably thought I would have to rethink my threshold from now onwards! Monday 18th December Tanjung Bungah This will be our last full day here, before moving on to Langkawi tomorrow. We walked to a huge Tesco Supermarket yesterday. The 2.9 kilometre trek doesn’t seem a long way on Google Maps, but in this heat the occasional tree can bring some considerable relief. After using the numerous convenience stores available to us, this place was like a Mecca of supplies at far cheaper prices. I had to smile at the totally enclosed glass room at the far end of the store. In here were the ‘non Halal’ goods. Wines spirits and pork! I guess if you are ‘sinning’ as a good Muslim, your neighbours should be able to witness you doing so! The neighbourhood where we are staying is very leafy, although predominantly a seaside resort. Our hotel for instance has 23 floors and there are several like it. Other high rise buildings are for private apartments and are even taller, giving the area a very modern look. These buildings are mainly towards the sea, so there are still plenty of local neighbourhoods to explore and understand how everyone else lives. We ate at a place called the Tsunami Restaurant (yes right on the beach lol) last night. It’s not a beautiful restaurant, but makes up for it with the food, service and position. Not that I have ever eaten in a restaurant looking over the blue Mediterranean in the South of France, but I wouldn’t swap it for sitting here, in a pair of flip flops and shorts, gazing at the small fishing boats bobbing along the shore. I wouldn’t have switched the bill either of $30, after enjoying crab, chicken and Tiger beers with first class and such friendly service. These kind of places are never found, unless you are willing to embrace the local culture. Instead of dining in the shadows of Notre Dame or in the overpriced squares and Piazzas of Europe, accept the backdrop of a Floating Mosque and the genuine hospitality of a hardworking restaurant owner. Tuesday 19th December Tanjung Bungah. We have never had plans to explore the Island of Penang more widley whilst staying here, we will save that, until we return from Langkawi on Christmas Eve. The bus services are really good here and when we stay in Georgetown, we’ll be better placed to buy a bus pass and all that opens up. So we have spent our time here on foot. The surrounding jungle clad hills are very prominent and are noticeable from all along this part of the coast. One particular one, Pearl Hill, rises from behind the row of shops facing, what we might call, the villiage green. I smile as I write that, because to imagine it as such, we have to substiute Horse-chestnuts for palms, roses for bougainvillea and park benchs for plastic chairs, nevertheless it serves the same purpose. Anyway I digress, the hill is the walk for this morning and I only hope we are able to conquer it! Google Maps indicates it will be a 2.5 kilometre hike, but of coarse gives no indication of how steep it might become, a good sign however, is it does show a pavement alongside the road. Indeed, it was steep at times, but thankfully the jungle like trees provided plenty of shade, which was very beneficial. Unfortunately houses were creeping higher and higher up the hill, taking the amazingly beautiful jungle with them. Arriving at the top wasn’t without shedding quite a bit of moisture and sitting at the top, in what seemed a small Chinese Temple and garden, was very calming, cool and welcoming. There was a person sleeping on a concrete bench on the far side, I don’t think he or she moved the entire time we were there. Yes, I am sure they were sleeping! Well I didn’t want to startle whom ever it may be! Yes, definitely the correct decision! The walk down was far more enjoyable. We were able to enjoy the jungle, rather than wish for our goal on the way up. The silence was occasionally broken by cicadas, building to a deafening chorus, or by a ring like sound, produced by things I have no clue. There were birds so small and colourful, I thought they were butterflies and butterflies so large I thought they were birds. As we again approached the houses, their oppulance became more obvious, one house even had a pure white peacock in the front garden. These places were only for those with money. The only people we saw were white and European, but of coarse they were walking like us and we certainly don’t own one. It was a nice ending to our time in this part of Penang and we easily finished the cans of tiger back at the room. Rehydration of coarse.

Straight of Malacca

From our balcony

Sunrise on our first morning

Sunrise

A local we met

The local garden centre.

Huge tropical trees along the side of the road

Indian Temple

Around the World Restaurant

Some very large appartments

The Floating Mosque

View from restaurant

View from Pearl Hill

The temple on top of Pearl Hill

The houses on Pearl Hill

Singapore, Singapore

Fri, 15 Dec 2023 02:40:00 +0800

15th December Singapore. There’s nothing more comfortable than the Silverkriss Gold Lounge at Changi, even at 5am. Our flight onwards to Penang Malaysia is scheduled for 7.50 and should only take around an hour. We spent last night in a hotel off of the airport, as the ‘Airside’ Ambassador hotel has risen from around $80 pre covid to over $300 per six hour booking. We found a hotel only a $25 taxi ride from the airport at around $100 per night, called Hotel 81 Changi. It was basic, but clean and obviously if you do the maths, half the price. Singapore has now introduced an online entry form. In Singapore’s very efficient way, it allows you to now enter via a smartgate in minutes and of coarse its free. The taxi driver told us there will no longer be four terminals, but one mega terminal as he put it by 2030. It sounds like hell, but I can’t imagine too many problems arising in this country once its operational.

Our cabin from Brisbane

Changi Terminal 2

Changi as beautiful as ever.

Brisbane

Thu, 14 Dec 2023 02:40:00 +1000